Some more about the lowering of Geminis

[Blue TG]

Another point, the diff also goes out of allignment, it actually moves to the left (looking at the back of the car) this is caused by the change in angle of the phanrod, therefore the lower you go the more your diff moves out to one side. This causes the car to "crabwalk" around hard corners if it is low enough, the car will shift sideways and its actually much easier to lose control of the back end.... sometimes good i spose.... The solution is an adjustable phanrod which has a thread along one end and a few locknuts to adjust and set. Although these are quite expensive, i saw a neat trick a while back, and that was to heat the phanrod about 200mm from the end that bolts to the diff and creat a short, sharp curve in it, hence a shorter phanrod. I have done the procedure with the spacers too, mine are not between the car and the torque tube, rather i put them on the bolt before it goes through the cross member, and yes these tips make alot of difference with handling, and accelerating out of corners. Another trick is.. as opposed to using strut braces in the engine bay, a mate of mine just used two lower front swaybars on his gem, he had two lots of bushes at each end holding the two seperate bars and then had them coupled together with a home manifactured brackets, worked wonders and it kept the front end VERY stiff.
Sorry bout the long post peoples, some things just need a bit of time, also i have solved the gemini torque tube-clunking-shitty gear changes etc problen, i have a fully modified tube on my gem now and it works wonders for chirping second gear, i will post the procedure soon, i wanna get some pics to go with it though.
Cheers
Steve