Brake Master Cylinder Upgrade

[GEMGEM]

If anybody has done a complete brake upgrade such as better front calipers and rear disc calipers and you find that the original 13\16" master cylinder is having trouble keeping up to deliver the sufficient amount of brake fluid.
With some research and trying different shit at pickapart we found that using a TE Gemini Brake Booster ( the studs are horizontal) unlike the TG is on an angle and the early TX Boosters have a four bolt stud pattern.
You can then go to the old Fords (XA-XB) and suprise suprise the 1" bore Ford Master Cylinder (whole thing is aluminium even the cups and has a tin cover with a metal clip) actually bolts up tp the TE Booster. There is one trick though! Apparently all hot rod guys use the TE Gem Booster With the XA Master Cylinder when they convert to disc brakes.
The trick is, in the booster there is a push rod that touches in the back of the master cylinder remove this rod with the seal (be careful that the friction disc inside the booster stays in there or if u want to clean it remove by using some long nose pliers or jab a bit of wire in it and pull make sure it does not fall in to the booster.)
The pushrod is what needs to be modified, their original length is ment to be 72mm and i was told that this needs to be extended by 3mm so that the pedal doesnt go half way to the floor before doing anynthing! I was preparred to weld extra metal on the tip and then grind it in to shape and 75mm in lenth.
But I had a look at few other rods I collected and found a rod 72mm, 73mm and the third one was 74.5mm almost which was interesting. Instead of welding shit Ive put the longest rod in (74.5mm approx) and the pedal already sits up a lot higher!
Il extend another rod to 75mm and see if that is better again.
Remember that you need to modify your brake lines so keep the flare nuts of the Ford master and go to a brake shop u trust to get the pipe flares done.
I had so much trouble that next time ill be geting my own pipe flaring kit to save driving back and forth!
I was told that the brake biosing will be fine but im a bit weary and its something you wont know untill its all together and driving.
Which if there is too much rear bios an adjustable biosing valve can be fitted and atlest that way you can suit it to the different driving conditions.
Hope this Helps Anyone!

[QldRobbo]

Have you got it all together now and working? Was the brake bias correct?

This is a very interesting post, thanks for adding it, does anyone else have any thoughts on this, potential problems, or praise etc?

[GEMGEM]

Hi there QLDRobbo!
I would love to be saying yes the car is done and im driving it but im still going with this project although I have moved away from the brakes and currently getting bits ready to paint inside door jams etc. Ive painted the engine bay and all the braking equipment is assembled, the pedal feels really nice you can feel a bit more resistance from the larger bore. Since the car is still a shell, no motor= no vaccum we wont really know what to expect. I have tried one test, 6mates push me to the top of the hill , ready set go im off theyr now pushin me down the hill I forgot to warn them that I shall be applying the brakes and ...... splat, every one suching was stuck on the back of the tailgate. The person that recomended I use the Ford Master seemed positive the bios would be fine, Im prepared that it wont be and if i got to put an adjustabe bios valve in then i got to, but it would be nice havin full control of ur stopping power! Im hoping to be putting the engine in by the end of November so Ill keep u posted!