Best Brake Fluid For TE Gemini

[sime]

Hey all,

Im looking for the best type of brake fluid to use in my TE Gemini.

Give me your recomendations and personal choices

Cheers

Simon M

[Momo]

Any type will do so long as you skull it. Don't sip it - and remember - slip, slop, slap.

[Gene FJ20DET]

the blue one looks pritty!! beter than the green one!. but about the sip and skull.
a mate of mine works at kmate tyre and auto and they kept there breake fluid in a coke botle. he also had a botle of coke on the work bench and turned around to take a big rehreshin drink. do the math!! hahahahah he drake a mouth full of breake fluid.
it says " do not induce vomiting on the botle if swalowed," he siad there was no need to HAHAHAHAHAHA
gene
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[gem12c]

Penrite is a good brand. there oil is even better. if you get a chance use penrite oil and tell me what you think.

[Gene FJ20DET]

oils oil how can u tell the diff?
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[Racegem]

...and goils aint goils! lol
I too like Penrite oil. Their HPR oils are a little thicker when they're hot, ie; 20W60 not 20w50.

Yonnee.

[Gold TX Sleeper]

I use Penrite in my G200, HPR40 which has an SAE rating of 25-70, at the moment it's freshly rebuilt and wearing in is an issue for me. I'll be changing to a thiner oil eventually but for now it's cheap engine insurance. I agree 100% that their viscosity ratings are much more diverse than most other oils. Plus it has an API rating of SL.
Reading oils 101 :
The SAE rating or better known as the viscosity (thickness) rating is identified by two numbers, most commonly 25-50, 15-30, 20-60 etc. The lower or first number represents the viscosity of the oil under it's most extreme tempretures. The second number is obviously the viscosity rating of it's coldest point - normally during engine start/warming up periods. Obviously, a higher number means a thicker oil and opposite for a lower number.
An advantage of a thicker oil is better protection but a disadvantage is it robs a little horsepower at higher engine speeds. So an oil with a rating of 25-70 is a good compromise, it will protect well during cold periods, but also be thin enough to not rob much power. Most normal everyday oils have a cold rating of 25, so it really isnt too thick when at it's peak temp.
The API rating (normally in small letters somewhere on the bottle) is basically it's quality and specification rating. This is normally measured in letters, and there are commonly two sets of them - one for spark induced combustion engines (petrol), and one for compression combustion (deisel) engines. The spark engine is rated first by the letter 'S', and deisel is rated first by 'C'. It's the second letter after the 'S' or 'C' that you need to take note of. Ignoring the deisel letters, the rating is as follows. The higher the next letter alphabetically, the better the rating ie; 'SK' is better than 'SH' etc. The Penrite oil is rated at SL (the deisel is CF). I have found this to be one of the best rated oils on the market for the price asked. I used to use Castrol GTX2 25-50 which had an API rating of SJ, but obviously the Penrite outshines it with a more diverse viscosity, and better API rating.
As far as brake fluid goes, to keep it simple - just grab any reputably branded fluid with at least a DOT 4 rating. I normally use either Penrite DOT 4, or Nulon DOT 4 fluid. In short, the higher the DOT number the better the fluid.
Jasyn...

Sorry to drag on, but at least you now know exactly what to look for when choosing an engine oil.

[sime]

thanks for the replys guys and thats for the info on engine oils aswell much appreciated

cheers

Simon M

[Badger]

any dot4 brake fluid will do, the main idea is to replace it once or twice a year. of course you can spend 10 times as much on silicon fluid, but it doesn't give better braking, just lasts 3 times as long (do the math).

regarding oil, I use pennzoil gt racing 25/50. great stuff. castrol is nasty oil. I heard that penrite use recycled oil as the base of their oil and was recomended against it.

[Gold TX Sleeper]

That's pretty ironic, one of the lecturers (a HQ racer) at the TAFE i did an engineering course at, was an expert on fuels and oils. He told us that it was Pennzoil that started to turn bodgy in the mid to late eighty's. But before then, they revolutionised the way oils were made providing some of the best products availiable. Apparently it was their use of the synthetic clear 'Pennz' in oils that made them world leaders in their time.
He never really touched on Penrite products, i might take a drive to go and have another chat to him.
Personnaly i put Castrol in the same league as Shell, only their best products are worth using. Anything else below these is pretty much a money maker. I stopped using Castrol oils once i found this out - couldn't afford top shelf stuff.
Jasyn...

[Racegem]

Everyone has their own preference for oil. Penrite's HPR series is certainly not recycled, and their 15W/60 is a semi-synthetic oil. I'm running Penrite HPR 50 (40W/70) in the 308, HPR 15 in the SV3800, and will run HPR 40 (25W/70) in the racecar till the new motor. Then I might try the new fully syntheyic HPR 5 (5w/50).
Other than being a good oil, being an Australian company is why I prefer it.

Sounds like I work for Penrite, not autObarn. )

Had one motor completely shit itself after 12 months using GTX2. NEVER AGAIN!!

Yonnee.