Fuel system queries

[Gold TX Sleeper]

G'day all, now that i have a job i can start investing go fast bits for my TX. A couple of queries that i have is
1) can anyone recommend an upgrade for my electric pump ? I chased around Autobarn (hey Yonnee!)for a Facet pump, but was told that they were phased out a little while ago. So no go there. I only had one pump recommended under the name 'Fuel Flow', apparently it pumps at around 3-4psi and costs $123.00. Has anyone else here picked up a decent pump for a reasonable price that would be suitable for a mild G200 ? And what are the standard pumps rated at in psi as i dont want to flood my carby ? I'd also prefer a pump that i dont have to listen to ticking away like a clock at traffic lights, but it isn't mandatory.
2) Not that this really matters, but it's a curiosity thing none-the-less. I have a single wire coming from the back of my tank where the sender unit or whatever it is is screwed on. This black/white stripe wire has been cut and is left floating in the breeze. My car still drives fine (except for the fuel pump cutting out every now and then) so i figure why touch it. But i'd like to know if it should be earthed or what the hell it's there for. Can anyone shed some light on this one for me ?
3) Just a bit of trivial stuff i thought about, after pulling my pick up out of the tank for inspection to see if it's blocked. I found that the little strainer on the end was perfectly fine, but what i would like to know is could i remove this part and fit a normal filter in the fuel-line before the pump in the boot ? Or would it be too restrictive compared to the strainer. Just a thought...
Cheers,
Jasyn...

[Ben Wight]

Facet pumps aren't fased out as far as I know, try autopro, the local has them in stock, only around $75 for a small unit but definitely capable of supplying a mild G200. For that matter, a standard pump is capable of supplying a hot 2 litre.

If you are willing to spend in the $150 region, I would buy a carter fule pump, very good quality, standard fuel pressure is 7 psi, though this shouldn't cuase any problems I dont think. You didn't mention what carb you are using.

If you have a wire coming from the sender that is cut, then I suppose your fuel gauge isn't working? If your gauge is working, then the wire does not come from the sender.

I would personally be using the stock pump, but if you want to use an external, the best bet would be to make a pickup using the strainer, as a proper filter on the end will cuase too much of a pressure drop and really impede the flow of the pump. Pumps like to push, not suck in general.

I recall TG models having a 3/8 pickup instead of 5/16. Something to consider.

Ben Wight

[Racegem]

Someone up there's pulling your chain. I have one of each of the three sizes in stock. How many would you like? Next time you go in, give them this number: FUE40105, or FUE-40105. (Also 104 & 106) If you still have no luck, find the guy who's in the blue shirt. He'll usually be the Store Owner. He'd like to keep your business. )

Factory pressure is around 4psi, and the external pump will pull through the original pump and strainer. But mount it in the boot on rubber grommets to quieten it down.

Yonnee.

[Gold TX Sleeper]

I'll keep hunting for the Facet pump, I'm running the standard carb at the moment, but will eventually look at either modifying it, a modified Holley 180 (not too keen on it), or the obligatory 32/36 webber. I'm trying to keep it as stock looking as possible (sleeper theme) save for the extractors. I'm eventually going to reasonably work the engine for around 90-100KW. All the usual NA stuff, cam, exhaust+extractors, lightly ported and flowed head, bigger valves (doing a search on the VW blank ones that were mentioned a while ago), upgraded fuel system to match, etc. etc. Am i kidding myself trying to extract this power, or is it feasable ?
And what would be an estimated quarter time for a 100KW TX with a 5 speed ? I'm hoping for low 15's.
The wire i mentioneed doesn't seem to affect anything and that's why i haven't bothered with it. It comes from the big round plate that is screwed onto the tank.
Is this right - the big plastc thing in the tank with the strainer attatched is the sender unit for the fuel gauge. It also acts as a pick-up point for the external fuel pump to draw from. I'm assuming it isn't an extra pump to feed the external pump - doesn't sound too right. Also, what is the line for in the bottom left hand corner of the tank ? Or is this where the fuel is drawn from by the external pump ? Sorry about all the questions, I'd rather know answers than wonder what the go is.
Yonnee, are the 40105 pumps about $100 ?
Cheers,
Jasyn...

[Racegem]

And I checked today, the numbers are (with the dash) FUE-40104, FUE-40105 & FUE-40106. They are different pressure ratings. The FUE-40105 does sixes and small eights so should be perfect for a worked four.


Yonnee.

[DOHC]

Hey man,

Sounds like your TX has a mechanical pump and an electric one but the electric one isn't connected, hence the cut wire...
My TG just had a blank plate (no fuel pump) in the tank and a mechanical one on the engine. If my memory serves me right I think the TX - TD (TE?) had an electric pump in the tank and for some strange reason they swapped back to a mechanical one on the TE - TG's.

Anybody else care to shed some light on this?

Cheers,
Ross.

[Gold TX Sleeper]

Now i'm really confused. I can normaly hear the ticking of the electric pump in the boot, and when i touch it i can feel the ticking coming from it. I dont understand why GMH has put a pump in the tank, and then another one in the boot no more than half a foot from it. Is it possible that the in tank pump is the one not working due to the wire being cut, and the electric one is drawing through it ? (electric one appears to have all wires connected, but in tank unit has the wire cut.) I dont have a mechanical pump on the side of the block, it has a plate welded over the hole for it.
I dont really want to shell out the hard earned for the wrong part thats giving me grief, although i do want to upgrade the electric item regardless. By the way Yonnee, i approached a different Autobarn here and they are helping me out tomorrow, now i know which franchise to deal with. Just a little trivial info, the guy that owns the VL turbo with the plates 06JET works there. I've got a mate that's trying to take him down in the VL street wars, he just put a whole heap of go fast bits on his ex BT1 chaser, and it was that powerful that it blew the gearbox to smithereens in just over 2 hours... ) Cant wait to see them race once he's fitted the C4 and Autronic computer.
I'm gonna try to get hold of a TX Gregory's manual so i can sort this fuel pump crap out once and for all. Anyone got a spare they want to sell ???
Cheers,
Jasyn...

[Racegem]

Jaysn, just out of curiosity, what does the pump in the boot look like? It sounds like you may already have an aftermarket fuel pump already fitted to the vehicle. Are there wires going to it? If so, it could be that the wire to the original pump could be the one that's cut.
All petrol Geminis up to the end of TE came with an electric fuel pump in the fuel tank. TF & TG had mechanical pumps mounted to the side of the head.

Yonnee.

[Gold TX Sleeper]

Ummmm.... Now how do i describe this sucker without pic's ?... Well, (the in tank unit) it's kinda L shaped. At the bottom of the L is the gauze strainer/filter. The major straight section is a kind of brown transparent plastic that is encased in rubber. There's (bad memory) two, maybe three wires coming from the top of the assembly that join onto the inside of the round plate on the tank, and the cut wire is virtually on the other side (outside) of where they hook up to. I know it's a little vague, but you may have seen this assembly before.
My boot mounted mystery pump has a fuel hose (this is gonna sound damn obvious) coming from the tank and goes straight into the L shaped component. I thought it was kinda weird to have a pump in the tank, feeding another pump that is an external electric item. My initial impression was that the in tank unit was basically either the sender unit to tell the gauge what the fuel level is, or it was the fuel pick up for the external pump.
The boot mounted pump is kinda cylindrical with a dome at the top, it's black and made from plastic. It has what looks like a power wire coming from it that joins up to the original wiring loom and an earth wire mounted to the metal in floor of the the boot. What was weird was that when i was fitting a home made immobiliser, i hooked an aftermarket toggle switch up to the external pump. But when i killed the pump, the engine kept running as though nothing had happened. I cant remember if i touched the pump to see if it was running or not. I figured the engine was probably running on what was left in the carb. So i did the typical kill-switch from the coil immobiliser, and it killed the engine first time. so it's still in place.
So you can see where my confusion has come in, on one hand i removed the power from the external pump without any affect. But the in tank unit doesn't seem to have any wires connected. I'm gonna have to pull the backing plate off the tank again to try and settle this once and for all.
Sorry if i've confused the bejesus out of you, once i get hold of a Gregory's manual for the damn thing it should get sorted. But for now, i'm just gonna have to be confused with it until i start inspecting it with a magnifying glass.
Thanks for your help and any future insight you can give me, it's appreciated.
Jasyn...

[Racegem]

Well it doesn't sound like a Facet pump, but you're right in assuming that the engine would still run on what's left in the fuel bowl. Try running it again with the external one disconnected and wait a while. It does sound like you already have an aftermarket pump fitted though.

Yonnee.