Gemini Alternator Issues

[Adam]

1. A factory Gemini Alternator puts out between 30 & 45 Amps(not much).
2. When you turn more electric things on then the alternator compensates for the drain on the battery and should charge 14.2volts, less with things turned on.(while engine is running).
3. The easiest alternator upgrade is to fit a Mitsubishi Alt off a mazda rx7 series 4, they bolt straight on and have from 55 to 80amps. You only have to change 2 wires at the alternator.
4. Batteries boot mounted are charged at the same rate as normal but can suffer from voltage drop when starting, depending on quality and length of cable.
5. Engine revs will drop when alternator charges due to load on battery. Same as when clutch fans cut in.
6. Relays are made to prevent voltage drop.
7. Not all Auto Elecs are ripoffs, some just charge $50 an hour because they deserve to if they know what they are doing.

[Racegem]

Definately worth looking into. Standard alternators don't much like extra drains on the electrical system. It's the poor alternator that gets overlooked in just about every stereo upgrade.

[MJ]

I had this problem, I just simply got the orginal Alternator upgraded, By this i mean the Windings inside the alternator. It went from a standard unit to having a 100 Amp output. No wiring to change either!! as it still uses all the same connections as a standard unit. So a 100 Amp Alternator cost me $100, compared to the other methods such as different Alternators, regs ect... and a lot cheaper too.

[MJ]

Here is the name of the company where i got my alternator done.
TKF Auto Rewind & Wholesalers Pty Ltd.

Address:
Unit 2 45 Irvine Drv
Malaga, WA, 6090
Australia

Phone:
(0 9249 4261

[Scotty G]

if you upgrade the alternator to a higher amperage the smartest thing to do is to upgrade the cables from the battery as well. more amps = more current trough the cables = more heat, which could end up frying some cables if they are too small. Also you should check all connections as if some are too lose, it creates a hot joint which reduces current flow and can fuck the cable. Ive seen this happen too often as i am an electrician, and we do deserve our money more money = more beer = pissed every night of the week! lol

[MJ]

Hmmm, That Part of the equation had already been taken care of With my Custom Cable Upgrade. The Cabling, Including Battery Terminals had already been replaced due to faulty earthleads. That had developed high resistance between the battery and the body, though to the engine block from the battery was still ok. This problem can also cause the Charge light to come on dimly (though more common in wet or damp weather) when the Electric's are under higher loads. Any Combination of the Heater (Fan, medium - high), Rear Demister, Headlights and Windscreen Wipers are all on at the same time.

The Cable was sort from Lance Auto Electrics, URL http://www.lanceautoelectrics.com.au/. 400 Amp Starter Cable with the appropriate Soldered Lug Termainals, for both the Positive (to Starter Motor) and Earth (Negative, to both the Car Body & Engine Block) Battery Leads. The Output from the now 100 Amp Alternator was connected back to the Battery via 8GA Cable. In to 4 Wire Gold Battery Terminals these Where obtained from Jaycar Electronics, URL http://www.jaycar.com.au/. Catalogue Part# HC4042 (Postive Terminal) & HC4043 (Negative Terminal). These terminals both will accept 2x 4GA & 2x 8GA Cables.

PS. I also have an Ass Dip of Electronic Eng