Rear Seal -- Help!

darkangylgem77 · rice boy Joined: 22 Jul 2003 Posts: 20

Is there a cheats way of replacing this without having to pull out the motor?

I've already had this replaced twice but after a few months the seal seems to just DIE and i am back to the same problem. Ive been told the crank might have a chip in it but since the person who did the seal didnt check I am not sure and I really need to fix this problem asap because I am sick of my starter motor getting filled up with oil (ha ha on me)

I've been told with other cars you can jack it up in different ways so you just pull the gearbox away from the motor but i have no clue if this can be done to gemini.

So if anyone knows a way I can get around will doing this seal without having the motor pulled out it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
-Gena

Te_Andrew_GC · tinkerer Joined: 19 Feb 2003 Posts: 62

i've got the same thing at the moment!!!!! how fuckin annoying.

i had a sneaking suspicion it was a rear main, but i wasn't sure, so i pressure cleaned the bottom end end, and turns out it was. also turns out the seal has more holes than a politicans promise, so now i have a lovely mix of engine oil and water. not good, especially as i still have to drive the car every day.

so anyone on the coast know how to fix this and is willing to lend a hand, i'll pay ya, i just can't afford the $350 i was qouted from a mechanic whos in the family to fix it.

also, what are the pistons on the rear drums called, i need 2 newys, i can do this shit, but is there any particular part name or number i need to know.

thanks stacks
andrew

Racegem · backyard mechanic Joined: 30 Jan 2002 Posts: 987

Hey,
The wheel cylinders are the term you're looking for in the rear drums.

I'm fairly sure the seal pulls out of the rear seal retainer, unlike the holden 6 or 8 which requires removal of the crank from the block. This means you only have to remove the gearbox, remove the flywheel/driveplate, prise the seal out, knock the new one in, and refit the box. I've made it sound easy, but it's easier than draining your coolant and undoing all the electrical connections to the motor, pulling the starter, removing belts, fan, pulleys and radiator, and undoing exhaust and engine mounts to pull the motor out!!
The gearbox is just tailshaft, clutch cable/auto linkages, electrical wires to top gear switch and reverse lights, and bell housing bolts. You still have to undo the starter, but you don't have to remove it from the car.

Good luck, Yonnee.

darkangylgem77 · rice boy Joined: 22 Jul 2003 Posts: 20

Do you have the same prob with the starter filling up with oil too? Grrr...
Im hoping this friend here who does work to my car every now and again will be able to do it but he's working now so dont know if he will have the time.

$350 is not a bad price, considering the motor has to be pulled out and crap but if you can find someone who's willing to do it cheaper than good on ya. I hope I dont have to resort to taking it to a mechanic to do mine as i dont trust those people. They seem to like sucking you dry.

Good to know im not the only one with the prob and hope you get it fixed soon!

- Gena

darkangylgem77 · rice boy Joined: 22 Jul 2003 Posts: 20

I was told that yes you can do it that way but for in order to do it like that I need to have the car lifted to a certain height, like using one of those hydrolic (sp?) lifts, so the gearbox has enough room to drop out of the way and unfortunately i dont exactly have access to one of those.

Te_Andrew_GC · tinkerer Joined: 19 Feb 2003 Posts: 62

yeah, i'm seriousley conssidering tossing the fuckin stocko engine and puttin in a 180 or 200. to many hassles to fix it, and youcould pick up a better donk for about the same price as repairs from the wreckers.

good luck though

macca_loto · tinkerer Joined: 30 Jul 2002 Posts: 168

Park it over a drain outside or sumthin or jack it up high enough and put it on stands so you can drop the box out a put it aside so you can work on it.