Lowering

[PlasticAge]

Ok's..wats the best way of lowering a gem, and by how much?..etc.....if u were to take an angle grinder to the springs etc.....

[Benjamin]

Not again... when will people learn/realise?

Don't chop your springs.
Don't question why, it is bad.

I did it once and seriously regret it, to the point where I believe it may have been part of the reason for my crash. It negatively affects the handling to a degree you can't imagine.

Do it properly, Pedders/Whiteline/King, whatever, you will be much better off in the long run

[tigermm]

OK I know you just said dont ask but.... WHY is it so bad??
Not that I have any expeirence with lowering cars, but if you do it right and the spring is always captive.... would it not just be like a softer version of Kings/Pedders etc?
With new (shorter stroke) shocks, realign the diff, and new ball joints etc, I honestly cant see how its gonna make so much difference. If anyone has a good reason PLEASE TELL ME.
Cheers all.

[JFK]

the shock of the car bouncing cracks the body

[Pete]

4 like $200 you will loose the risk of cracking springs, botoming out, skipping when you try and get sideways, etc etc. if your gunna go 2 all the trouble of shockies and realigning the diff, spend the extra on the springs. They are made to feel soft for a certain amount of travel and then stiff lower down, making the ride still smooth.

[tigermm]

OK, but why will the body crack with shortened springs if the are the same rate?
I dont mean go stupid with lowering, just to make it look better. (ie not even close to the bumpstops).
if you cut off the softer progressive part of the spring thatll make it harder anyway wont it?
See the thing is that my back shocks are:
A) Too long, so the standard springs arent even captive.
B) Shagged.

So because Im on a real tight budget (a student) I was thinking I might get some shorter shocks for the front, put the current front shocks on the back, and shorten the springs to suit.
I know its pretty dodgy but im just in the stage of deciding wether to just buy new back shocks or try this.
The skipping the back out problem is because the diff acts as an upper trailing arm so when you lower it the front mounting needs to be moved higher.

Im really just trying to get an idea of wether my thinking is right on this, and if this will be worthwhile. But I might even have to get the oldies to help me out with some standard shocks, so I might not try this anyway.

Thanks for your replies guys.

[Benjamin]

What the other guys say is also right.
You will crack the body if you hit the bump stops, which is more likely with shortened springs. Also, when you chop them, the springs don't have a proper seat and they damage the ring they sit on.

The problem with cutting the softer part of the spring is you completely mess up the spring rate. Even professionally lowered springs have fome form of progressive rate.

When you chop the softer part, you ruin the handling over small bumps/potholes/ruts and so on, which affects the way the tyres hold the road. Instead of soaking up the little bumps, it skips over them because the first part of the spring travel is now much more stiff than it was before. I know that sounds like a positive, but it ain't. Your tyres will lose grip more easily in hard cornering.

Believe me, on a wet road you don't want this because any little bump will automatically send you into aquaplane-mode... (FYI I understeered in the wet at 50kmh on an oil patch and had a head on, writing off my TX in the process)

What if you cut a coil off the stiffer part?
Nononono, then you end up with more sag and a softer spring. You will hit the bumpstops in zerotime. Even when you cut off the softer part they sag more. As soon as you cut a spring you compromise its strength, and then they are more prone to cracking.

You options are:
1) Panelvan springs: stiffer but not lower, and they are also longer on the driver's side.
2) Diesel springs, which I am told are stiffer.
3) I have heard of Commodore springs fitting the back, but I would assume they are too long, so you would need to cut them...

4) Most recommended: save up and get the real thing. Even a set of Pedders (the cheapest and easiest to source) will make a huge difference and they are not that expensive. You will save money in the long run.

Decent shock absorbers make a difference too. I am using Monroe Touring Gas, tighter ride, less bodyroll and sharper handling for about $68 a pair a couple of years ago. Shorter shocks would be reserved for when you are going for the whole deal, and then you would be wanting Koni or similar ($$$)

I hear ya on the student budget thing, cheers

[tigermm]

Yeah maybe I will just save some dosh.
Thing is Im in NZ so all the aussie stuff like pedders, whiteline etc is still expensive. Ive been quoted $500 for just springs. Fuck exchange rates sre gay!!!
Its already got panel van springs...... cause its a panel van!! haha.
Maybe Ill ring Jamex and see how much they cost.
Anyone had any experience with these springs???
What springs does everyone reckon are the best bang for ya buck?? (or maybe I should just look at the cheapest)

Cheers for your replies peoples

[PlasticAge]

LOL, after all that, im well aware of the effects of doing the old angle grinder lowering, etc. But i dont care coz im gonna sell this car. So if anyone knows how much to take off, that would be really cool :O)
If i was gonna keep the car, i would have gone for a pedders kit and gt gas shocks.

[Benjamin]

Hmmm, some unsuspecting boy buying his first car might just crash and burn because he didn't know the springs were cut...
I mean, how was he to know? Unless you tell him, and I doubt too many people with brains or a clue will buy a car with cut springs.

Just some thoughts, not being nasty, just thinking

[MatMan]

On that note, let us never here of the angle grinder job again

[Pete]

A-men.

[PlasticAge]

LOL.....jobs done now anyways :O)